JULY 10, 2007.
I was scheduled for another trip in Caramoan after a week’s rest, but cold and fever has aggravated my condition. After two weeks, I booked for another trip to the Peninsula, this time to cover and shoot the coastal dwellers in Barangay Paniman.
JULY 25, 2007.
I traveled alone to Caramoan. Quite advantageous since this will allow me greater flexibility to work and can manage my time well without the hassles of pure enjoyment. I was able to book a room at La Casa Roa in just a text away and the second time around was so easy since I am already adjusted to the place. I rented a tricycle that also serves as my guide to Barangay Paniman.
I arrived late afternoon. After a 15min nap, I immediately went to Barangay Paiman to meet Wilfredo Rodriguez to whom I have prior appointment.
The road to Paniman is poor. There are some points where I need to alight from the tricycle in order for the vehicle to climb. There are also areas that call individual passengers to walk. Its about 45min ride away from the town proper before I was able to reach its end-point. Houses are quite far from each other, so it’s dangerous to travel by night. If one is get caught stranded in midst of areas where no houses are at sight, you have no one to turn to.
Paniman’s coastline has a wider area providing more breathing space for fishing activities. After coffee, Mr. Rodriguez oriented me about the barangay’s whereabouts, the people’s livelihood and their practices. I was amazed how these fishermen are united against illegal entries of dynamite fishers. Ninety percent of their livelihood depends entirely on fishing. I admire their decisiveness when it comes to protecting their habitat. They admit that once humans ruined this marine sanctuary, it would even cost their lives.
I was able to establish few shots using my digital camera. Residents are so friendly; they even offered me room to stay. I caught a few of them playing their pastime “tong-its” under a large malobago tree. After some light conversation, we feasted on grilled talakitok fish dipped in soy sauce.
JULY 26, 2007.
I went back the following morning to document the fishermen’s practices and do some interviews about their beliefs and customs. I had the fist-time experience of pulling the sinsuro, a fishing net used to catch fish. Over a hundred of these pumpboats patrol the sea at four in the morning.
A few meters away from the beach is Delloro’s Mud Crab Farm. The family has been engaged in this business for 7 years now and is a new industry being developed in Caramoan. These medium crabs caught in mangrove swamps and rivers are fattened in a swamp few meters away from Delloro’s house. The crabs are enclosed in a cage where it is doubly treated and fed only with natural foods. I spent the whole afternoon in their farm. We ate steamed crab freshly catch from their farm over tuba, a drink extract from Nipa palm found in mangrove forest and fermented with vinegar. The fattened crabs are tastier and meatier than ordinary saltwater crabs.
JULY 27, 2007.
The next day, I took breakfast at Gota Beach to visit Mang Bonong’s family. Afterwhich, I began hiking to Umang Cave. Numerous tourists visited the cave for its extraordinary stalactite and stalagmite formations, but my intention is to capture the bat cave droppings known as “guano” that has been the farmer’s rich source of fertilizers for crops.
As what locals have assured me, the cave is easy to climb; even children can reach the place. But this is not always the case. We passed by a vast expanse of rice paddies before we start the climb. The way to Umang Cave was so steep compared to Hidden Valley. I have to cling to nearby shrubs and trees since I am afraid to fall down. Midway the hike, I nearly shouted that I want to go back home, but when I look behind my back, I could not figure out how tall we have climbed and how am I going to go down. There’s no other choice but to take the risk. Upon reaching its front chambers, I admit, the climb was worth it. Bathed in natural sunlight, the cave exhibits a different kind of aura, secluded from the rest. The air was cold and all we can hear are bat cave’s mating calls.
I was trying to catch my breath; my knees are trembling so I just let my guide shoot the inner chambers of the cave. According to them, the Cave is enchanted, so we did ask permission first from the deities that reside inside its chambers. This has always been the practice even among visitors.
I was scheduled for another trip in Caramoan after a week’s rest, but cold and fever has aggravated my condition. After two weeks, I booked for another trip to the Peninsula, this time to cover and shoot the coastal dwellers in Barangay Paniman.
JULY 25, 2007.
I traveled alone to Caramoan. Quite advantageous since this will allow me greater flexibility to work and can manage my time well without the hassles of pure enjoyment. I was able to book a room at La Casa Roa in just a text away and the second time around was so easy since I am already adjusted to the place. I rented a tricycle that also serves as my guide to Barangay Paniman.
I arrived late afternoon. After a 15min nap, I immediately went to Barangay Paiman to meet Wilfredo Rodriguez to whom I have prior appointment.
The road to Paniman is poor. There are some points where I need to alight from the tricycle in order for the vehicle to climb. There are also areas that call individual passengers to walk. Its about 45min ride away from the town proper before I was able to reach its end-point. Houses are quite far from each other, so it’s dangerous to travel by night. If one is get caught stranded in midst of areas where no houses are at sight, you have no one to turn to.
Paniman’s coastline has a wider area providing more breathing space for fishing activities. After coffee, Mr. Rodriguez oriented me about the barangay’s whereabouts, the people’s livelihood and their practices. I was amazed how these fishermen are united against illegal entries of dynamite fishers. Ninety percent of their livelihood depends entirely on fishing. I admire their decisiveness when it comes to protecting their habitat. They admit that once humans ruined this marine sanctuary, it would even cost their lives.
I was able to establish few shots using my digital camera. Residents are so friendly; they even offered me room to stay. I caught a few of them playing their pastime “tong-its” under a large malobago tree. After some light conversation, we feasted on grilled talakitok fish dipped in soy sauce.
JULY 26, 2007.
I went back the following morning to document the fishermen’s practices and do some interviews about their beliefs and customs. I had the fist-time experience of pulling the sinsuro, a fishing net used to catch fish. Over a hundred of these pumpboats patrol the sea at four in the morning.
A few meters away from the beach is Delloro’s Mud Crab Farm. The family has been engaged in this business for 7 years now and is a new industry being developed in Caramoan. These medium crabs caught in mangrove swamps and rivers are fattened in a swamp few meters away from Delloro’s house. The crabs are enclosed in a cage where it is doubly treated and fed only with natural foods. I spent the whole afternoon in their farm. We ate steamed crab freshly catch from their farm over tuba, a drink extract from Nipa palm found in mangrove forest and fermented with vinegar. The fattened crabs are tastier and meatier than ordinary saltwater crabs.
JULY 27, 2007.
The next day, I took breakfast at Gota Beach to visit Mang Bonong’s family. Afterwhich, I began hiking to Umang Cave. Numerous tourists visited the cave for its extraordinary stalactite and stalagmite formations, but my intention is to capture the bat cave droppings known as “guano” that has been the farmer’s rich source of fertilizers for crops.
As what locals have assured me, the cave is easy to climb; even children can reach the place. But this is not always the case. We passed by a vast expanse of rice paddies before we start the climb. The way to Umang Cave was so steep compared to Hidden Valley. I have to cling to nearby shrubs and trees since I am afraid to fall down. Midway the hike, I nearly shouted that I want to go back home, but when I look behind my back, I could not figure out how tall we have climbed and how am I going to go down. There’s no other choice but to take the risk. Upon reaching its front chambers, I admit, the climb was worth it. Bathed in natural sunlight, the cave exhibits a different kind of aura, secluded from the rest. The air was cold and all we can hear are bat cave’s mating calls.
I was trying to catch my breath; my knees are trembling so I just let my guide shoot the inner chambers of the cave. According to them, the Cave is enchanted, so we did ask permission first from the deities that reside inside its chambers. This has always been the practice even among visitors.
Exploring Caramoan. Hidden Valley
JULY 1, 2007. We rented a pumpboat from Gota beach for a 20minute sea journey to the small inlet that serves as the only access to hidden valley from sea. Mang Bonong’s family who treated us like their own family sent us a plateful of Bihon and local kakanin called ibos as part of our baon. It never occurred to our mind that the hike is a tedious one that sent off our limbs trembling. From the small inlet, we started traversing the mountainous area characterized by steep pathways. Mature coconut trees grow in seclusion about 3 hectares in diameter surrounds the portal of the small inlet. According to Mang Moyong, the hike is only about 1hour but for us, it took us 2hours to reach his place! I’ve never been into mountain climbing before but this one is a good way to loose my fatty deposits. Large twisting lianas adorned the trails way up the mountain. Canopy trees and mountain springs are everywhere. There’s much to see in hidden valley. From endangered species like the Tarictic hornbill, famous Macaue to different species of plants, stranglers, epiphytes to insects and fruit bearing trees. I was in awe how Maricris Tucson explains in vernacular dialect how these plants grow and how insects and even snakes managed to survive. I nearly tumbled twice from the steep slope and my hands are already trembling when I got hold of the camera. My clothes are soaked in mud. No such words could describe how hungry we are; thanks to Mang Bonong’s family who packed foods for us. We feasted on a small plate afterwhich drank water from the cold mountain spring before we started shooting.
Exploring Caramoan. the local's wisdom
JUNE 26, 2007. The next lap of our journey is to gather data from the local people’s indigenous practices documented through video and still camera. We employ observations and interviews. For a more thorough understanding of these practices and to be able to experience it first-hand, I decided to stay for a couple of hours to each family’s house. What actually came out are beautiful portraits of the inhabitants of the peninsula, unchoreographed, it appears so natural. Many of them are shy in front of the camera so we respect their decision not to document their practices by film.
JUNE 27, 2007.
We are still on the data-gathering stage yet I admit I have already fallen in love with the place and the community. The people are so hospitable that one need not worry if lost. It is from these locals that warned us not to take the south diversion road, an overland journey to Naga that invites accidents and only males are allowed to travel there by day.
JUNE 30, 2007.
We were told by the residents that a sole family has managed to live in the hinterlands in the vast expanse in Hidden Valley under the protective shadow of a limestone cliff. The hidden valley is part of the National Park where mineral deposit abounds. During a coffee break in Gota, we were able to do a full interview with Moyong de Mesa who lived in Hidden Valley for 27 years. While the conversation ensue, Moyong’s story has heightened our interest about the place and how they were able to survive in an isolated mountain range that depends entirely on natural resources and the indigenous way of living. We planned the next day to hidden valley.
JUNE 27, 2007.
We are still on the data-gathering stage yet I admit I have already fallen in love with the place and the community. The people are so hospitable that one need not worry if lost. It is from these locals that warned us not to take the south diversion road, an overland journey to Naga that invites accidents and only males are allowed to travel there by day.
JUNE 30, 2007.
We were told by the residents that a sole family has managed to live in the hinterlands in the vast expanse in Hidden Valley under the protective shadow of a limestone cliff. The hidden valley is part of the National Park where mineral deposit abounds. During a coffee break in Gota, we were able to do a full interview with Moyong de Mesa who lived in Hidden Valley for 27 years. While the conversation ensue, Moyong’s story has heightened our interest about the place and how they were able to survive in an isolated mountain range that depends entirely on natural resources and the indigenous way of living. We planned the next day to hidden valley.
Exploring Caramoan. Island Tour
We were scheduled for a whole-day island hopping to explore the 298 hectares National Park. We woke up 4am since its good to work early on while the fog is still down. We rented a pumpboat good for 3 to 5 passengers. These pumpboats do not have covers so we can get a good view of the tall limestone mountains.
From then on, we were prepared for the most dreaded thing – the sunburn. The weather was calm in the morning but the rain heavily poured down in the afternoon. Although we were not prepared to get wet, we were not spared by the downpour of rain. Thanks to the durability of Sony handycam. It can withstand extreme weather conditions. We were able to cover 5 islands fronting Gota Beach including the eastern portion of the National Park.
This includes Bag-ieng Island, Matukad Island, Tayak Beach, Tayak Lagoon, Cagbalinad Island, Langkipaw Tablet Rock and Naglahos Island. Features of these islands are captured through photographs. Among the islands, it was Cagbalinad Island that holds us stunned. Water is so clean where corals carpet the entire coast of the island. We were so lucky the water was still that allows us to capture in film the beauty of this coral formations revealed here for the first time.
From then on, we were prepared for the most dreaded thing – the sunburn. The weather was calm in the morning but the rain heavily poured down in the afternoon. Although we were not prepared to get wet, we were not spared by the downpour of rain. Thanks to the durability of Sony handycam. It can withstand extreme weather conditions. We were able to cover 5 islands fronting Gota Beach including the eastern portion of the National Park.
This includes Bag-ieng Island, Matukad Island, Tayak Beach, Tayak Lagoon, Cagbalinad Island, Langkipaw Tablet Rock and Naglahos Island. Features of these islands are captured through photographs. Among the islands, it was Cagbalinad Island that holds us stunned. Water is so clean where corals carpet the entire coast of the island. We were so lucky the water was still that allows us to capture in film the beauty of this coral formations revealed here for the first time.
Exploring Caramoan. Through the lens
We paid courtesy visit to Caramoan LGU to jumpstart our field reconnaissance. Jeffrey Sancho, the tourism officer of the town accommodated us and helped us around getting familiar with the town. He was responsible for contacting the barangay captains and population officers to answer my queries for research. After some light conversations, we headed to Barangay Ilawod where we were introduced to Brgy. Captain Epifanio Baler who helped us identify those people whom we can tap as respondents of the study. Also, in Barangay Paniman, we met Wilfredo Rodriguez, then municipal administrator of the town who also walked us through facilitating connections with the coastal fishermen in their area. Both barangays are located within the peripheries of the Caramoan National Park, the scope of my study.
We were able to get a glimpse of the famed Gota Beach late afternoon. Gota is the most prominent tourist destination located in Barangay Ilawod and serves as an entry point to reach other islands. This sugary white powder beach is enclosed by hundred meters tall limestone outcrop. Mang Bonong and his family were the caretakers of the resort and have maintained the only sari-sari store available in that area. There are no cottages that would cater a luxurious treat for visitors. We brought tents to stay overnight. Most guests do the same. This is to preserve the natural beauty of the place. Pumpboats, tents and other needs can be rented at a reasonable price. Electricity is available, but water is scarce. One can hardly see garbage or even pellets of candy wrappers floating on sea or scattered on sand. Garbage baskets are provided along sides. There we met Manuel Tengco of PAWB-DENR who religiously explained everything about the national park.
We were able to get a glimpse of the famed Gota Beach late afternoon. Gota is the most prominent tourist destination located in Barangay Ilawod and serves as an entry point to reach other islands. This sugary white powder beach is enclosed by hundred meters tall limestone outcrop. Mang Bonong and his family were the caretakers of the resort and have maintained the only sari-sari store available in that area. There are no cottages that would cater a luxurious treat for visitors. We brought tents to stay overnight. Most guests do the same. This is to preserve the natural beauty of the place. Pumpboats, tents and other needs can be rented at a reasonable price. Electricity is available, but water is scarce. One can hardly see garbage or even pellets of candy wrappers floating on sea or scattered on sand. Garbage baskets are provided along sides. There we met Manuel Tengco of PAWB-DENR who religiously explained everything about the national park.
Exploring Caramoan. My first taste of its cuisine
We took lunch at 4pm feasting on “nilasing na hipon”. That was our first taste of the sumptuous seafood of the Peninsula. The shrimp is half my plate as big cooked by the hostel’s caretaker whom we fondly called “Ate”. Ate has been with the hostel for a good number of years who treated us like a family of her own and takes care of all our needs. We started exploring Caramoan late afternoon. The town is a closely-knit community where each one seems to know each other. Caramoan has 49 barangays with a total of 7, 666 households. Its physical composition is typical of a rural town isolated by sea. There are only two eateries operating in the town and market site is neatly packed on the street where shops cater only to the basic needs of the people. Electricity is available. Shops and stores close at 5pm, so we hardly see anybody going around the town when night falls.
Exploring Caramoan. The rugged terrain
From Guijalo Port, we rented a tricycle for another 15min ride to Caramoan town proper. Roads were built on sideslopes of mountains where some parts are not yet cemented. Visitors have to contend the rocky and bumpy surface. I was in awe how drivers exhibit dexterity in driving with roads like these…
We disembark at La Casa Roa Hostel. Owned by a family of doctors, the hostel is a residential house converted into an inn, good enough to accommodate 20 visitors. Both its exterior and interior are made from Philippine hardwood “Kamagong” and “Yakal” giving it a unique air of character. One thing I like about this place is it has a lot of plants sprawling in the frontyard. The hostel is located in the town proper, about 8km away from Gota Beach, the main entry point to Caramoan National Park. Most of the inns are located within the poblacion area where one can just rent tricycle going to different barangays or one can opt to commute. It’s cheaper to commute than renting a tricycle that costs 300pesos.
Exlploring Caramoan. Getting there.
JUNE 22, 2007.
From Legazpi Satellite Terminal, we boarded on a Filcab for a 2hours ride to Naga City where vans at CBD terminal chartered passengers to Sabang, San Jose port. It’s a 1½ hour ride to reach Sabang port where a 2hours sea journey to Caramoan begins. Sabang has a small port where most of the passengers bound to Caramoan disembark. However, typhoon Reming left nothing but broken blocks of cemented walkway of the port causing extensive damage on the Lagonoy Riverside. Because of this, pumpboats and cargo vessels could no longer dock at the pier especially at low tide. We need to be carried on men’s shoulders to get to the pumpboat for Php20.00 each. Daily trips start at 5:30am until 2pm. Boats are made of hardy hulled wood with outriggers which can accommodate 10tons of cargoes.
From Legazpi Satellite Terminal, we boarded on a Filcab for a 2hours ride to Naga City where vans at CBD terminal chartered passengers to Sabang, San Jose port. It’s a 1½ hour ride to reach Sabang port where a 2hours sea journey to Caramoan begins. Sabang has a small port where most of the passengers bound to Caramoan disembark. However, typhoon Reming left nothing but broken blocks of cemented walkway of the port causing extensive damage on the Lagonoy Riverside. Because of this, pumpboats and cargo vessels could no longer dock at the pier especially at low tide. We need to be carried on men’s shoulders to get to the pumpboat for Php20.00 each. Daily trips start at 5:30am until 2pm. Boats are made of hardy hulled wood with outriggers which can accommodate 10tons of cargoes.
While on our sea journey to Caramoan, we encountered an islet considered by the locals as the landmark of Caramoan. Known as the “Rose Islet”, this jewel is a 1.5 hectare coral island that becomes the favored stop-over for tourists and visitors going to Caramoan.
While on board the Harry V pumpboat, a native of Caramoan warned us not to drink from tap water when we get there. It is quite common in their place that strangers are likely be poisoned, so when in doubt, the old man recommends to drink buko juice from coconut instead.Its less than two hours to travel by sea but it was almost 2pm when we got off to Guijalo Port, the entry point to the Peninsula. This small port with concrete planks is currently managed by the LGU Caramoan. Alas, we don’t need to be carried on man’s shoulders just to get on the pavement.
Exploring Caramoan. An undiscovered wilderness
June 12, 2007
I was into catatonia writing the proposal for this project; not because such experience with an exotic island will set exciting new heights, but more so, I knew there’s something I need to introduce to that place.
After Dr. Flor approved the proposal, I have not wasted a single time researching on the whereabouts of the place. In walkabout inquiries, many have discouraged us because the place is allegedly infiltrated by the left. History attests to military encounters with these groups that are common in towns of Caramoan, Garchitorena, Lagonoy, and Sabang. Evidence to this is the increased military visibility in the area. Yet, this did not deter me in pursuing the plan.
JUNE 19, 2007.
Together with Majo, my cousin and Henry, who owns the videocam, we set forth to Caramoan 5am. We brought with us a video camcorder, digital camera, and an SLR camera. Camping gears like tents, flashlights and mosquito repellant lotions are a necessity. As we were told, neither ATM outlets nor Rural Banks are available in the area, so we brought enough cash but with extra caution!
I was into catatonia writing the proposal for this project; not because such experience with an exotic island will set exciting new heights, but more so, I knew there’s something I need to introduce to that place.
After Dr. Flor approved the proposal, I have not wasted a single time researching on the whereabouts of the place. In walkabout inquiries, many have discouraged us because the place is allegedly infiltrated by the left. History attests to military encounters with these groups that are common in towns of Caramoan, Garchitorena, Lagonoy, and Sabang. Evidence to this is the increased military visibility in the area. Yet, this did not deter me in pursuing the plan.
JUNE 19, 2007.
Together with Majo, my cousin and Henry, who owns the videocam, we set forth to Caramoan 5am. We brought with us a video camcorder, digital camera, and an SLR camera. Camping gears like tents, flashlights and mosquito repellant lotions are a necessity. As we were told, neither ATM outlets nor Rural Banks are available in the area, so we brought enough cash but with extra caution!
